Step by Step Guide for Building a PC at home
How to build a pc at home. Assembling a gaming PC doesn’t have to be a daunting task if you break it down into these more manageable chunks. You need not worry if you have never built anything before; no expertise is assumed. 1 2 3. Constructing your own gaming computer from the ground up is the only foolproof method of ensuring that your hardware meets your every need. When you build your own PC from the ground up, you have complete control over the components and can set the system to run games at the frame rates you want. Another benefit of a custom PC is that it may be easily upgraded in the future, whether because of advancements in technology, because your needs have shifted, or because your budget has expanded.
The process of constructing a personal computer may appear daunting at first, How to build a pc at home, but it’s actually rather simple when broken down into smaller, more manageable parts. For this reason, we have compiled this detailed instructional guide for constructing your own own gaming PC, packed with helpful hints from our seasoned staff.
PREP 1: PC Build Tools for How to build a pc at home
The first step in getting ready is amassing the necessary materials. The success of the construction process depends on the following items being prepared in advance.
- Workspace. If you don’t have access to a large table or other work surface, you’ll need to get creative with other solutions. If you want to protect sensitive equipment from being harmed by static electricity, you should avoid standing on carpeting.
- Screwdrivers. A Phillips No. 2 screwdriver is universally useful and required for most tasks. A Phillips #0 screwdriver is also required to install an M.2 device.
One helpful hint is to use a magnetic screwdriver so that you don’t lose any screws within your case. The magnetic tip is quite weak and shouldn’t have any influence on your components.
PREP 2: Gaming PC Cases
You should have a case in mind, or at least a case size, before picking out parts.
When deciding on a case, it is very important to think about where the PC will be kept. Where you plan to put your PC will influence its maximum size and whether or not you should spring for a more expensive case. For instance, if the PC is going to be tucked away under your desk, there’s little need in shelling out extra cash for a tempered glass display. Full-tower, mid-tower, and mini-tower are the three standard sizes of computer cases. These groups are based on motherboard size but are extremely broad because case sizes vary widely between manufacturers.
PREP 3: Gaming PC Parts
You should start assembling your parts right now. You can be as involved or as detached as you desire at this stage, conducting in-depth research on each individual component and constructing a unique build from start, or finding a pre-made build online and tailoring it to your precise budget and requirements.
Since it’s easy to go overboard while purchasing individual components, setting a budget before you begin shopping is strongly advised. You can always improve certain parts at a later time.
To ensure that everything you buy will work together, it’s a good idea to compile a list of what you need before you go shopping.
Consider the game’s suggested system requirements if that’s why you’re creating the PC.
In addition to the case, a gaming PC requires the following parts:
- Computer’s brain (CPU)
- Memory Chips for the Motherboard (RAM)
- GPU, or Graphics Processing Unit (GPU)
- A source of electrical power (PSU)
- Computer chilling
- Accessoires periphorial
- Method of operation (OS)
Let’s break down what each part does, why it’s important, and what to look for when you’re making your purchase.
STEP 1: INSTALL CPU
Equipment: Central Processing Unit and Motherboard
Remove the motherboard from its antistatic bag and set it down on your work surface. The central processing unit (CPU) socket will have a protective plastic cap over it; remove it. Keep an eye out for the tiny arrow on the socket or in one of the corners of the plastic cover. The CPU socket has a tiny metal lever next to it. To access the socket tray, depress the lever and pull it gently to the side (away from the socket). Taking the CPU out of its container. Keep in mind that the central processing unit (CPU) and its socket can both easily broken by careless handling. Don’t touch the pins on the CPU’s underside or the chip’s surface, as doing so could introduce contaminants like dust or grease. Hold the CPU by its edges instead How to build a pc at home. There’s an arrow in the upper right hand corner of the central processing unit. Place the CPU carefully into the socket, making sure the arrows match up. As soon as the CPU has been carefully reinserted, the retention lever can be lowered and the CPU pushed back into position. Although you may have to exert some effort to lower the lever, you won’t need to worry about pushing the CPU into its seat.
STEP 2: INSTALL M.2 SSDs
Included components and equipment include a motherboard, M.2 SSD, Phillips #0 screwdriver, and a motherboard user’s manual.
Now is a wonderful moment to set up an M.2 SSD. Identify the M.2 slot on your motherboard as a starting point. The slot is horizontally sized and has a little screw opposite it. Check the user manual that came with your motherboard if you can’t locate it, if you find more than one M.2 slot, or if you intend to install more than one M.2 SSD.
You’ll need a Phillips #0 screwdriver to get rid of that one little screw. Stay calm.
Carefully insert the M.2 SSD into its socket. In its fully seated position, it will protrude from the motherboard by around 35 degrees. To secure the SSD, press it down and replace the little screw.
STEP 3: INSTALL CPU COOLING
Tools/Components: Motherboard with CPU already installed, CPU cooler, thermal paste, CPU cooler user manual
CPU coolers come in a wide variety of forms and designs. We suggest looking at your CPU cooler’s user manual for specific information on how to set it up.
A mounting bracket may be necessary for some coolers. It’s possible that the motherboard already has a bracket attached to it, in which case you’ll need to either remove it if your cooler doesn’t need one or attach a new one if it needs. It’s best to do this before installing the motherboard. When it comes to cooling, some coolers have thermal paste already applied to the conductive material (which rests on the CPU), while others do not. If your cooler doesn’t come with thermal paste already applied, How to build a pc at home you’ll need to manually apply some before you install it. Squeeze a tiny amount (about the size of a grain of rice) of thermal paste onto the core of the CPU and spread it around. The pressure of the cooler being applied to the CPU will then evenly distribute the thermal paste..
STEP 4: INSTALL MEMORY (RAM)
Hardware: mainboard, random-access memory, and user guide
Verify the number of RAM expansion slots on your motherboard (most have either two or four). Simply snap the RAM into place if you intend on using all of the available slots. Consult the user handbook for the recommended setup if you are not intending to use all of the RAM slots.
STEP 5: DO A TEST RUN OUTSIDE THE CASE
Comprised of: CPU, CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, graphics processing unit, power supply unit, screwdriver, motherboard user handbook, and computer display (attached to GPU)
Now that the central processing unit (CPU) and its cooler have been fitted, you may wish to run a short diagnostic to ensure that everything is in working order. Once everything is mounted in the chassis, it is considerably harder to conduct this test (and diagnose any problems). Start by installing the GPU and then hooking up the rest of the components to the power supply (if you’re not sure how to install the GPU, read on). Turn on the power after checking the connections between the PSU and the motherboard (CPU 8pin and CPU 24pin). Even on high-end motherboards, power buttons are uncommon. Find the power switch pins, which are little pairs of prongs protruding out of colourful nodules, if no power button is present. It is possible to put labels on the power switch pins (such as “PWR ON”). Use a screwdriver to simultaneously tap both power switch pins to activate the motherboard. Identifying which parts are no longer performing properly or have died should now be a breeze. Your motherboard is definitely attempting to tell you something if it is flashing lights or making noises at you. Depending on the motherboard, a two-digit post code may be displayed to help narrow down the cause of the error. Read the handbook to learn what it means. If your motherboard doesn’t have a post code display, you can still see if your system “posts,” or starts up and displays the motherboard’s logo, by connecting a display to the GPU.
Turn off the power source and wait for the motherboard’s LEDs to go dark when the test is complete to make sure there is no power left in the machine. The GPU must be uninstalled and all power cables must be removed before moving on.
STEP 6: MOUNT POWER SUPPLY
Electrical power supply, housing, power supply cables, and a Phillips #2 screwdriver
The power supply unit (PSU) should be removed from its packaging and its cords set aside before any testing is performed (if you can).
Have a look at your case and choose the best orientation for the PSU (it will most likely be on the bottom, near the back). To maximise airflow, the power supply unit should be installed with the fan pointing away from the casing (via a vent). If your computer case has a bottom vent and will get enough airflow when the PC is done, you can mount the PSU upside down.
If your case doesn’t have any openings for airflow, you should install the power supply with the fan pointing upward (within the case). Use the four provided screws to secure the power supply unit to the case. The power supply’s wires should be routed through the case now if it isn’t fully modular or has a few extra connections you need to make (make use of cable management features if your case has them).
STEP 7: INSTALL MOTHERBOARD
You’ll need the following tools and components: a case, motherboard, I/O shield (if not already attached), Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, and the motherboard user’s manual.
Before installing your motherboard, you should snap in the I/O shield (a rectangular metal piece with cutouts for the motherboard’s ports) that came loosely with it into the back of the case. Be careful not to cut yourself on the edges of the I/O shield.
The motherboard can go in after the I/O shield has been attached. Verify that the motherboard is aligned with the I/O shield and that all cables have been routed to their appropriate locations. Install the first screw, the central screw, using a Phillips #2 screwdriver to secure the motherboard. Take care not to damage the chassis’s standoffs by dragging the motherboard over them. Motherboards have varying requirements for the number of screws needed for installation, but a standard ATX board requires nine. Stop any leaks by plugging any open screw holes. The motherboard needs electricity, so link up the power supply. Aside from the main 8-pin CPU connector near the top of the board, the other main connection is a 24-pin connector on the side.
STEP 8: INSTALL GPU
Hardware: Motherboard, Graphics Processing Unit, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, user guide for motherboard
Investigate the motherboard for the PCIe* x16 slot. It’s possible that this PCIe* slot will be a different colour, as it will be the longest of its kind. If your motherboard includes more than one PCI Express x16 slot, you may need to assign a higher priority to one of them. You’ll want to give your GPU some room to breathe, so if any slot is available, choose it depending on where other components will be installed.
There may be small metal tabs blocking the rear panel of your case that must be removed in order to make room for the I/O (HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, etc.) of your GPU and allow it to be connected to the outside of the chassis. Remove the graphics processing unit (GPU) from its antistatic packing, How to build a pc at home align it with the slot’s rear retention bracket, and then slide it gently into the slot (you may hear a click). If you need to reseat the GPU, the PCIe* tab on the motherboard can get stuck. Using one or two screws, fasten the GPU to the case’s rear once it has been seated properly. Attach your GPU to the wall outlet if it has any additional plug-ins for electricity.
STEP 9: INSTALL STORAGE
Tools/Components: Motherboard, Solid-State Drives, Hard Disk Drives, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, user guide for case/chassis
You should first look at your case. Different cases have varying numbers of available drive bays.
Inside the case, you should discover a collection of bays in varying sizes. They could merely look like metal brackets, or they could have tiny plastic switches designating them as tool-free bays.
Hard disc drive (HDD) and solid-state drive (SSD) sizes are 2.5 inches and 3.5 inches, respectively (HDDs). Some 3.5-inch bays may not have tray cutouts that are compatible with 2.5-inch drives, but those drives can still be installed in a 2.5-inch bay. Larger bays, typically found in the front of the chassis, near the top, are designed to accommodate drives of a more substantial size, such as optical drives.
A plastic lever or switch will be installed in each compartment that does not require tools. If you flip the switch or pull the lever, you should be able to remove the tray. Insert the drive; some 3.5-inch trays will include cutouts for 2.5-inch drives. If so, you may need to secure the 2.5-inch drive to the 3.5-inch tray by means of screws. Just tuck the tray back into its compartment. It ought to fit snugly. A metal bracket the size of a sheet with slats or holes in it will be present if tool-free bays are unavailable. All you have to do to install a hard drive in one of these “bays” is slip the drive in between the metal bracket and the side of your case and secure it with screws. Use the number of screws specified in the chassis instructions; however, if you don’t have that many screws, two screws should suffice for most drives.
Once you have all of your drives installed, you must connect them to the motherboard (using a SATA cable, which should have arrived with either your drive or your motherboard) and the power supply.
STEP 10: INSTALL OPERATING SYSTEM
Equipment: computer with all the trimmings (monitor, keyboard, mouse, and operating system on a USB flash drive)
Your operating system (OS) should now be copied onto a USB flash drive if you haven’t already done so. (For further information on this topic, please refer to the “PREP 3: Select your components” section above, which is dedicated to operating systems.)
Turn on your computer and connect your operating system flash drive, screen, and How to build a pc at home input devices.
Pressing a key will take you into the BIOS configuration menu, which will be the first screen you see. To access the BIOS, press the appropriate key. Please refer to your motherboard’s user manual if you are unable to see the key before the screen goes blank.
Ensure that all of your components are properly installed and detected before proceeding. See if the system is picking up all the components you’ve installed so far by navigating to the BIOS screen that displays system details (the exact location of this screen varies from motherboard to motherboard, but it should be possible to locate it).
Then, navigate the BIOS menus until you reach the Boot section (may be called “Boot Order” or “Boot Priority”). If you’re using an SSD as the primary drive, How to build a pc at home you’ll want to switch the boot order so that the SSD boots first, followed by the disc where you intend to install the operating system.
Start your machine back up. If you have an operating system installer on a USB drive, it will launch when your machine boots from the USB. Proceed with the installation by following the on-screen prompts.
Congratulations on completing your construction (especially if this is your first time) if you’ve read this entire guide! To be sure, this isn’t where the job must stop. The nicest part about putting together How to build a pc at home is that you can always improve it. A bespoke PC can be tailored to your exact specifications and budget, so you can have the most cutting-edge hardware available without breaking the bank. Remember these potentials the next time you’re looking up system requirements for a game you want to play. The PC you just built will be the backbone of all your future gaming adventures, and customising its parts is a huge part of the enjoyment.