How to build own gaming PC, the daunting task of creating a gaming PC may be broken down into its constituent parts. Don’t worry if you have never built anything before; no experience is necessary. The only way to know for certain that your gaming PC can meet all of your needs is to build it yourself. Once you’ve decided on every component of your PC, from the power supply on up, you can be assured that you’ll be able to run your favourite games at a smooth frame rate. In addition, if your gaming needs or interests change, or if your budget expands, you can always update your custom-built PC.
How to build own gaming PC
While the prospect of constructing a personal computer (PC) may seem daunting at first, doing so can be simplified into more manageable phases. For this reason, we have compiled a detailed how-to guide for assembling your very own gaming PC, packed with helpful hints from our seasoned staff.
Method 1: PC Build Tools
The first step in getting ready is to collect all of the materials you’ll need for the build. Having the following components ready ahead of time will greatly aid in the progress of the construction.
- Workspace. You’ll want something flat like a table to spread out your work on. Make sure you’re standing on bare ground to avoid damaging sensitive equipment by electrostatic discharge.
- Screwdrivers. Simply put, a Phillips #2 screwdriver is an indispensable tool. A Phillips #0 screwdriver is also required to install an M.2 device.
To avoid losing screws within your case, it’s recommended that you use a magnetic screwdriver (the magnetic tip is very weak and shouldn’t affect your components).
Method 2: Gaming PC Cases
You should have a case in mind, or at least a case size, before you begin selecting components.
- When deciding on a case, it is very important to think about where the PC will be kept. Where you plan to put your PC will decide how large it can (or cannot) be, as well as whether or not you need spend more on things like a fancy casing. If your computer is going to be hidden away under your desk, for example, you probably don’t want to shell out the cash for a tempered glass side panel.
- Full-tower, mid-tower, and mini-tower are the standard dimensions for cases. These groups are based on the size of the motherboard, but are fairly broad since case sizes vary greatly between manufacturers.
Method 3: Gaming PC Parts
It’s time to start assembling your parts. You can be as involved or as detached as you wish at this stage, conducting in-depth study on each individual component and constructing a unique system from scratch, or you can discover a pre-made build on the internet and tweak it to meet your exact requirements.
Component purchasing can quickly spiral out of control, so setting a budget before you start is highly advised. Keep in mind that you can always upgrade parts at a later time.
Make a list of everything you need before you go shopping, because everything must work with everything else.
Consider the game’s suggested system requirements if that’s why you’re creating the PC.
In addition to the case, a gaming PC requires the following parts:
- Machine in the centre of everything (CPU)
- ROM on the Motherboard (RAM)
- CPU for handling visuals (GPU)
- Electrical generator (PSU)
- Keeping the heat down
- Add-ons for Video Games
- Method of operation (OS)
Let’s break down what each part does, why it’s important, and what to look for when making your purchase.
STEP 1: INSTALL CPU
Equipment: Central Processing Unit and Motherboard
The motherboard must be removed from its anti-static package and placed on a flat, workable surface. The central processing unit (CPU) socket will have a plastic cover over it; remove it. Usually a small arrow is located in one of the corners of the plastic cover, although it can also be found on the socket itself.
A little metal lever can be found next to the CPU socket. To release the socket tray’s cover, press down on the lever and pull it gently to the side (away from the socket).
The CPU must be opened and taken out of its container. The central processing unit (CPU) and its socket are exceedingly fragile, so exercise extreme caution when handling them. Never touch the pins on the bottom of the chip, as this can introduce dust or oil, and try not to touch the top of the chip either. Hold the CPU by the borders.
A pointer can be seen in the upper left hand corner of the central processing unit. Place the processor carefully into the socket, making sure the arrows match up. After placing the CPU carefully, the retention lever can be lowered and the CPU pushed back into position. The lever needs to be lowered, but the CPU doesn’t need to be pushed into its seat.
STEP 2: (OPTIONAL) INSTALL M.2 SSDs
User handbook, M.2 solid-state drive, Phillips #0 screwdriver, and the mother board itself
Today is a great moment to set up an M.2 SSD. Learn where the M.2 slot is on your motherboard first. It resembles a tiny horizontal slot, and there’s a matching screw of similar size on the opposite side. Consult the user manual that came with your motherboard if you are unable to locate the M.2 slot, if you discover several M.2 slots, or if you intend to install more than one M.2 SSD.
Use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to take out the little screw. Make sure you keep your cool.
Gently insert the M.2 SSD into the slot. To the motherboard, it will protrude at a 35-degree angle once it has been seated. To secure the SSD, press it down and replace the little screw.
STEP 3: INSTALL CPU COOLING
Parts/tools: Motherboard with installed CPU, CPU cooler, thermal paste, CPU cooler manual
Computer processors can be cooled in a number of ways, using a variety of different coolers. Please refer to the user guide that came with your CPU cooler for specific instructions on how to install it.
A mounting bracket may be necessary for some coolers. It’s possible that the motherboard already has a bracket attached to it; if your cooler doesn’t need a bracket, you’ll need to either remove the one already there or install the one your cooler requires. It’s best to do this before installing the motherboard.
While the conductive material of some CPU coolers comes pre-applied with thermal paste, other coolers do not. Unless thermal paste is already pre-applied to your cooler, you will need to manually apply some before you install the cooler. Squeeze a tiny amount of thermal paste onto the centre of the CPU, no bigger than a grain of rice. Next, attach the cooler to the CPU, where the weight of the cooler will evenly distribute the thermal paste.
STEP 4: INSTALL MEMORY (RAM)
Parts/tools: Motherboard, RAM, motherboard user manual
Check the number of RAM slots on your motherboard (most have either two or four). Simply snap the RAM into place if you intend to use all of the slots. You should check the user handbook for the recommended RAM arrangement if you aren’t intending to use all of the available RAM slots.
STEP 5: (OPTIONAL) DO A TEST RUN OUTSIDE THE CASE
Parts/tools: Motherboard with CPU and CPU cooler installed, RAM, GPU, PSU, screwdriver, motherboard user manual, PC monitor (attached to GPU)
You should conduct a short test of your components now that the CPU and CPU cooler have been installed to make sure they are operational. After everything is mounted in the chassis, this test becomes far more challenging to complete (and troubleshoot). Put in the GPU and hook it up to the power source (if you need help with the GPU installation process, read on). Plug in the power supply after checking that it is properly connected to the motherboard (CPU 8pin and 24pin) and the graphics processing unit.
While some high-end motherboards do include physical power switches, many others do not. Locate the power switch pins, which are small pairs of prongs sticking out of colourful nodules, if there is no power button. Labels (maybe “PWR ON”) could be placed on the power switch pins. The motherboard can be activated by tapping both power switch pins with a screwdriver.
If any of your parts are dead or malfunctioning, you should now be able to identify them. Those flashing lights and beeping noises coming from your motherboard usually mean something. If you have a motherboard that displays error codes, it may be able to tell you what the issue is by displaying a two-digit post code. To learn more about what it means, check the manual. If your motherboard doesn’t have a built-in post code display, you can still check to see if your system “posts,” or starts up and displays the motherboard’s logo, by connecting a display to the GPU.
After the test is complete, make sure there is no power left in the system by turning off the power supply and watching the motherboard’s LEDs turn off. Then, before continuing, remove the graphics processing unit (GPU) and disconnect all power cables.
STEP 6: MOUNT POWER SUPPLY
Parts/tools: PSU, case, PSU cables, Phillips #2 screwdriver
Unpack the PSU (or unplug it from the components if you opted for a test run) and set its cables aside (if you can).
Take a look at your case and choose the best orientation for the PSU (it will likely be on the bottom, near the back). The power supply unit should be installed with the fan pointing away from the case (via a vent). You can install the PSU in an inverted position if your case has a vent on the bottom and that vent will get sufficient airflow in the completed PC.
If your case doesn’t have any openings for airflow, you should install the power supply with the fan pointing upward (within the case).
Install the power supply unit into the chassis using the four screws provided.
This is the time to route the cables for a non- or semi-modular power supply through the case and into their final locations (make use of cable management features if your case has them).
STEP 7: INSTALL MOTHERBOARD
Parts/tools: Case, motherboard, I/O shield (if not attached to the motherboard), Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, motherboard user manual
Snap the I/O shield (a rectangular metal sheet with cutouts for the motherboard’s ports) into place in the back of your case (make sure it’s orientated correctly) if it wasn’t already there when you got the motherboard. Always be careful with your fingertips around the margins of an I/O shield.
The motherboard can go in after the I/O shield has been installed. Assuming you’ve double-checked the routing of your wires, you can set the motherboard (carefully aligning it with the I/O shield) in its proper position. Install the first screw, the central screw, using a Phillips #2 screwdriver to secure the motherboard. Take care not to damage the standoffs in your chassis by dragging your motherboard across them.
A full-size ATX motherboard typically requires 9 screws for mounting. However, this number can vary widely amongst different boards. Cover up any open screw holes.
Join the PSU to the motherboard. An 8-pin CPU connector can be found near the top of the board, and a 24-pin connector can be found on the side.
STEP 8: INSTALL GPU
Parts/tools: Motherboard, GPU, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, motherboard user manual
Look for a PCIe* x16 slot on your motherboard. In addition to being the largest of the PCIe* slots, this one can be a different shade than the others. If your motherboard includes more than one PCI Express x16 slot, you may need to assign a higher priority to one of them. If any slot is available, consider where other components will go to give your GPU some room and pick the slot accordingly.
As such, the I/O (High-Definition Multimedia Interface, DisplayPort, Digital Visual Interface, etc.) of your GPU may need to be exposed to the outside of the chassis, which may necessitate the removal of I/O covers (little metal tabs obstructing the rear panel of your case).
Take the graphics card out of its anti-static packing, line up the retention bracket at the back with the slot, and then push it in. The slot is PCI Express x16 (you may hear a click). If you need to reseat the GPU, you may find that the PCIe* tab on the motherboard has locked. Assuming the GPU has been properly installed, one or two screws should be used to fasten it to the case’s rear. Connect the GPU’s extra power connectors to the wall outlet.
STEP 9: INSTALL STORAGE
Parts/tools: Motherboard, SSDs, HDDs, Phillips #2 screwdriver, screws, case/chassis user manual
Verify your case’s integrity first. The number of available drive bays varies between cases.
Your case should have a collection of bays in varying sizes. Metal brackets may have little plastic switches designating them as tool-free bays, or the switches may be concealed.
2.5-inch (hard disc drive) and 3.5-inch (solid-state drive) storage devices are the most common (HDDs). Some 3.5-inch bays may not have tray cutouts that are compatible with 2.5-inch drives, but those drives can still be installed in a 2.5-inch bay. Bigger bays, typically found in the upper front of the casing, are designed to accommodate drives of a larger size, such as optical drives.
For tool-free bays, each bay will have its own plastic lever or switch. In order to remove the tray, you must first activate the switch or pull the lever out. Drop your hard disc into the tray; some 3.5-inch trays will have cutouts for 2.5-inch drives. If so, you may need to secure the 2.5-inch drive to the 3.5-inch tray with screws.
Just tuck the tray back into its compartment. Everything should go together easily now.
A metal bracket (large and flat like a sheet) with slats or holes in it will be present if tool-free bays are unavailable. Simply slip your hard drive in between the metal bracket and the side of your case, then secure it with the included screws. You should use the number of screws specified in the chassis instructions, but in most cases, two screws will suffice.
The next step is to connect the drives to the motherboard (using a SATA cable, which should have come with either the drive or the motherboard) and the power supply.
STEP 10: INSTALL OPERATING SYSTEM
Parts/tools: PC, monitor, mouse, keyboard, OS saved to a flash drive
Get your operating system (OS) ready on a USB flash drive right now if you haven’t already. (For additional information on this topic, see the “PREP 3: Select your components” section above, which is dedicated to operating systems.)
Turn on your computer and connect the USB drive containing your operating system, as well as a display device, input device, and power source.
Pressing a key will take you into the BIOS configuration menu, which will be the first thing you see. To enter the BIOS, press the key. (Refer to your motherboard’s user manual if the screen goes blank too soon for you to see the key.)
Your first step should be to double-check that your hardware is properly installed and recognised. Check that your PC is recognising all of the hardware you have installed by navigating to the BIOS screen that displays system information (the exact location of this screen varies from motherboard to motherboard, but it should be possible to locate it).
Proceed to the Boot page by navigating the BIOS menus (may be called “Boot Order” or “Boot Priority”). If you’re using an SSD as your boot drive, you’ll want to put the operating system on this drive, so make sure to switch the boot order around.
Turn off the machine and wait for it to boot up again. When you plug the USB into your computer, it will start up from that and launch the OS installer. Do as instructed to complete the installation.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q1: Is it hard to build your own gaming PC?
Putting together a personal computer from scratch may seem like a daunting task. But it’s actually quite simple once the process is broken down into more manageable chunks. For this reason, we have compiled a detailed. How-to guide for assembling your very own gaming PC, packed with helpful hints from our seasoned staff.
Q2: Is it cheaper to just build a PC?
A custom-built PC will always cost more up front than a ready-made one. However, the quality of the parts you get when you buy them separately is usually higher. Than the parts you get when you buy a pre-built computer.
Q3: Is it cheaper to build a PC or buy one already built?
Building your own computer isn’t necessarily the most cost-effective solution, contrary to popular belief. It’s not easy to determine which option is the most cost-effective among buying ready-made, having something produced specifically, or building it yourself. Identical hardware combinations in the three pricing points may have different sticker prices, depending on variables like supply and demand.
Q4: What does ninja use for PC?
Desktop computers with the Intel Core i9-9900K processor are what Ninja uses. It’s a 16-thread processor with 8 cores. All Intel 300 series chipset-based motherboards should be able to use it.
Q5: Is it better to build or buy a PC 2022?
As of right now, it looks like things will start looking up by the end of 2022. But based on what I’ve observed, I anticipate the trend continuing through 2023. So, yes, assembling own PC will save you money if you can find the parts for MSRP or used (without paying scalper pricing).